Sub $100k. Priceless Description. (26. February 2007, 09:51 by Derek Young) ~ A Little Sweat Equity...
“This is the worst home on the block, a fixer that has potential to have really nice curb appeal… There is definitely room for profit or just plain sweat equity here.”
What do you get? 2 bedrooms. 1 bath. 960 square feet of 1904 goodness. $97k. The best offer on March 1st gets it.
Listed with Keller Williams (MLS # 27030332)
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Well, that’s basically MY house in a different neigborhood.
Though the “do not occupy” sign is not a good one, regardless of the price.
(Our lot is comparable, too)
1 | Posted by NEAL | Feb 26, 10:37 AM
There are a lot of nice, simple, working-class houses like this in that neighborhood that haven’t been ruined. It’s a pretty typical design, but timeless. The world would be a better place if we all had (and used) porches. Fifteen years ago, I was a little leery of that part of town; not sure how it is today. Having gutted a house room-by-room before, this one wouldn’t scare me away if it’s solid. It looks like it’s got much of it’s original charm intact. Winning bidder, please don’t put new white vinyl sliders.
4 | Posted by Dave L. | Feb 26, 06:28 PM
Ok, gotta ask … what is the window to replace with? I haven’t gone vinyl, but my house has aluminum … I’m so off topic and I’m sorry, but I gotta ask …
5 | Posted by tacomachickadee | Feb 26, 09:41 PM
Or … sigh … is the answer not to replace? (My house windows were, I believe, originally what is pictured here. No more … so I’ll at least second, don’t rework the windows! Argh.
6 | Posted by tacomachickadee | Feb 26, 09:43 PM
It’s late but let me see if my brain is still working…. I don’t want to hijack the thread for too long, but I feel your pain. If the windows are original, there’a a lot that can be done to repair them up and make them more efficient. I had cheap aluminum sliders retrofitted in the 70’s, too. But fortunately there were installed in the original 1908 frames. Since I couldn’t afford complete replacements that still looked historically appropriate (and my house wasn’t a prime historic specimen anyway), I strayed from being a purist and found a good compromise (in money, time, and look) in double-hung wood sash-replacement kits (a la Kolbe-Kolbe or Marvin). I’m not an expert, but they were a good DIY compromise for my purposes (though not quite what you’d want for a true historic restoration). Once the original wide casings were restored they looked pretty good. I’ll contact you in case this might help. I read that Historic Tacoma will have some presentations in May, and I believe “windows” will be one topic. Hang in there…. (sorry for babbling and hijacking)
7 | Posted by Dave L. | Feb 26, 11:16 PM
MY LITTLE RANT TO ADD TO THE WINDOW REPLACEMENT SUBJECT
YES! I Applaud Tacomachickadee for mentioning that one should NEVER replace double-hung or casement wooden sashes in an old home. The window companies lie when they advertise the appreciable efficiency of replacement windows. The cost is outrageous compared to moderate window repair and yearly maintenance, and as for aesthetics, replacing original wooden windows in an old house is one of the best ways of ruining its character, along with siding and trim replacements.
The simple answer to the big question is, here in the Pacific Northwest there is not enough appreciable heat loss in reasonably maintained wooden sashes to justify replacement. I say reasonably maintained because here in this part of the country the best way to loose interior heat is air infiltration through drafts (it just doesn’t get cold enough); a well repaired and maintained wood window will reduce that problem to near nothing. In fact, wood is a better insulator than vinyl and anything is better than aluminum. Yet heat loss through convection (convection or conduction, I can’t remember which is which) in Northwest homes is so minimal that double or triple paned windows is money wasted; thats why most old homes around here do not have insulation in exterior wall cavities (Now the Midwest and Northeast is a different story).
Repairing old windows is really not that hard and anyone can do it with the right tools and information. NOTE: ALMOST ALL wooden sashes can be repaired and function well.
In my bungalow on South I near Wapato lake I was fortunate that most of the original double-hung sashes were in place, and the ones that were replaced still retain the original jambs. I’ve managed to wood repair , rot stabilize, square up the jambs, replace and re-glaze with reclaim wavy glass, replace with new sash chords and reclaim counterweights, strip paint, finish wood, and achieve a snug well functioning unit on almost all of the original windows. I only had to mill a replacement for one lower sash only due to pieces missing and noticeable rot on a highly visible varnished window set (i.e. i didn’t want to paint it). With the replacements I’m in the process of milling myself some original copies with reclaim old growth fir 2×4’s. In addition, I’ve managed to start making myself some storm windows. They do wonders for the upstairs westerly exposed windows during wind storms and can’t be beat for reducing noise infiltration, yet they only stay on from about November to April (they also tend to deter burglars).
I hesitate to do this but I have such a passion for trying to keep people from replacing their wooden sashes. If anyone has any questions about window repair ability, resources, tips or such e-mail me at thegulag@comcast.net
9 | Posted by Nick | Feb 27, 02:07 AM
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